The soul food lexicon is ever-expanding, encompassing and weaving in flavors and influences of the South, Caribbean and from across Africa. Here in Southern California, tacos also emerge as part of our soul food canon, based on recipes that trace back to Black kitchens.
At first glance they might resemble the hard-shelled “gringo” tacos at fast-casual restaurants. But the seasoned ground beef (and, often, turkey) in these tacos is never bland or mushy, the cheese and lettuce are shredded fresh, and the fried tortillas are crisp, never stale. Instead of bottled options, the taco sauce is often made in-house, balancing peppery heat with a tang that recalls good barbecue sauce. They’re the afternoon snack that our moms and friends’ moms made, and for more than 30 years, Black-owned taco stands have specialized in this homey dish.
Opened on South Central Avenue in 1989 by Mack Jones, Original Taco Pete calls itself the “home of the Black taco.” The family recipe was passed down by Jones’ aunts Gladys and Garthea and remains the same all these years later, though the menu has expanded to include burritos, burgers and sandwiches with a range of fillings. Similarly, Sky’s Gourmet Tacos, opened on Pico Boulevard in 1992 by Barbara “Sky” Burrell, started with just five tacos on the menu, including the spicy-sweet shrimp that’s coated in a proprietary sauce and remains a top seller.
Local soul food restaurants also have found inspiration in tacos. Stevie’s Creole Cafe hosts a weekly Taco Tuesday where they wrap hot honey shrimp, jerk chicken, oxtails and other specialty meats in street-taco-sized tortillas. At Alta Adams, a vegan taco that blends African, Caribbean and Latin flavors is a newcomer to the California soul menu.
Tacos are a frequent canvas for invention in L.A., and rising cooks are bringing new takes on Black tacos, including a Parmesan-dotted option with a shell that’s bathed in enchilada sauce. At one of Mid-City’s favorite soul restaurants, a native Angeleno is preparing to relaunch a pandemic-born taco shop that highlights pan-Latin and African flavors.
Whether you grew up eating them or want to sample a new sector of our city’s sprawling taco scene, here are nine places to try Black tacos:
